All things Tailored

Tailor tools (1 of 1)

Do your friends or coworkers ask you to fix their clothes? I know this is a popular discussion amongst sewers out there. I’ve read posts on learning how to say no to people and how to price out your work when you can’t say no. It’s all good information, but what if you’ve never done the thing they need tailored, do you still do it?

A coworker recently threw a blazer on me saying he needs it tailored in five days. Five days. He only needed it taken in a little, and luckily the coat didn’t have a back vent so I was able to slice out three inches from the center seam.

Here’s the thing. I’ve never tailored a coat before. That’s real. This guy, my coworker and friend, gave me a fancy coat to tailor only a few days before a wedding he’s attending. Do I tell him I’ve never done it before?

PFFFFTTTTT NO! Not me. Not this guy.

So I fitted his coat on a sidewalk next to my car a few blocks from our work in the middle of the afternoon. Never mind us people, we’re just pinching and pinning here.

The actual restructuring process took about an hour. Would’ve taken less time but I started taking pictures of the process as it happened. The most challenging part was just overall nervousness of fucking up. I mean, Jesus, he gave me his only fucking coat for this wedding. I know that’s his bad for poor judgement, but I really didn’t want the rest of our relationship to be like “and then she messed up my coat.”

Tailor newseamline (1 of 1)Tailor seamline chalk (1 of 1)

I actually loved the entire process. It’s like refashioning things, which I’m totally into.

I like seeing how clothes are put together. The real guts of an outfit, if you will. I’ve learned a lot about sewing this way. I mean you can read about sewing stuff and then you can bust out your seam ripper only discover that the SEAMS ON COATS AREN’T FINISHED?!?

Tailor unfinseams (1 of 1)

I get it, they don’t have to be finished because they’re housed by lining, but I was still shocked. Aren’t these items worth several hundred dollars?

Don’t we learn in sewing that finishing the seams helps the longevity of the clothing? See, this is why it’s important to tear up clothing made from the pros.

The coat fit him perfectly, by the way. I’m happy, he’s happy. I have a couple more things to fix for coworkers. Next up is a coral chiffon dress for a bridesmaid. It’s beautiful and I’m not going to mess it up. I am not going to mess it up.

Thanks for reading!

Prep Work

color pencils (1 of 1)

Hey guys. I’ve been thinking about my projects for the next few weeks. It’s always exciting getting another one started.

I read a post from Vivat Veritas about what happens when she doesn’t plan out her projects. It got me thinking about what everyone else does when they plan. Since teaching myself how to draw last year, I’ve become relentless about adding that step to project planning. I would liken it to carrying something around the store to make sure you want it. The more time I spend on it, the more time I have to figure out if this is actually something I’d wear.

The fun part of sketching the pattern is buying supplies. I love my pencils and paints. I’ve been talking to some artists recently about their illustration tools and I think I’m going to invest in markers. Maybe not Copic, but Prisma. Someone told me they’re just as rich in color, but less expensive.

My drawing process is pretty simple. Pencil first. Not mechanical. Go over sketch with micron pen. Erase. Then the fun part, much like stitching everything together under the sewing maching, coloring everything in.

Drawing tools (1 of 1)

Gouache paints

I’ve got a couple of black dresses drawn. Both are knit. Both will get worn. I can’t decide which will get made first.

Sketch Black Lady Skater (1 of 1)Sketch V1314 (1 of 1)

I recently switched gears and traced a pattern that I’ve had for a few years, Simplicity 3964. I think I’m going to make it a top with sleeves instead of a dress. Gahhh..I don’t know. I have a beautiful navy rayon challis that I would love in this pattern.

Sketch Simplicity 3964 (1 of 1)

So, how do you guys plan your sewing?

Light Grey Linden

Light Grey Linden Sweatshirt--Grainline Studio |wefthem.com

Hey guys. Here’s my second Linden Sweatshirt. It’s got a lot more drape than my pink version. I actually ironed this one before taking pictures of it. You’re welcome.

I’ve worn it out a couple of times. I think it looks better with a long dangly necklace like this here vintage Armani piece to break up all of the white/grey fabric. Here’s the sweatshirt without the distracting jewelry.

Light Grey Linden Sweatshirt -- Grainline Studio| wefthem.com

The fabric is from fabric.com. They’re out of the grey, but have a couple other colors like this cream one. I wouldn’t say that it’s the best quality of fabric, I’ve already seen a couple of holes forming around the bottom band after one wash. So we’ll call this version a very wearable muslin until it falls apart.

Since this fabric has some substantial drape compared to my last one, which was definitely more of a traditional sweatshirt, it pools and hangs much more freely. The one thing that bothers me are the sleeves. If I make it again in a less stable fabric I’ll definitely take more than the inch and a half I already removed.

Light Grey Linden Sweatshirt -- Grainline Studio| wefthem.com

I didn’t add any topstitching on to this version. Since it looks “dressier” than the last one, I thought I’d keep the lines cleaner. Less is more.

Light Grey Linden Sweatshirt -- Grainline Studio| wefthem.com

I’m trying to decide on my next project. I want to make a dress, but it’s going to be zero degrees out here for the next few weeks. It’s not too soon to start sewing up spring and summer dresses, is it? I might make a black Linden. Emma, from Emmadime, showed this sweater from TaylorStitch a few weeks back. Perfect, right? I can definitely find that fabric. And really, what’s one more Linden Sweatshirt when I want to wear them daily anyway? It’s like I’m a cartoon. Same thing, different color.

I hope everyone is staying warm. Thanks for reading!

Hey. Welcome.

Magenta Linden Sweatshirt -- pattern from Grainline Studio| wefthem.com

Hello! I’m so excited to finally launch my new site and talk about this sweater. I was previously over here, but had to move. A big life change meant I had to change everything. I stopped sewing for the last 10 months and just sat behind the scenes reading what everyone else was making. It was depressing. Since I began sewing back in 2011, sewing blogs have been my source of inspiration, they’ve keep me motivated. Not sewing made me feel lazy and guilty especially when sitting by my sewing stuff. When this pattern came out last fall, I knew it would be the ONE to get me back in front of my machine.

It’s the Linden Sweatshirt from Grainline Studio. I love it. As easy as putting together the pattern was, I found several areas of opportunity in my new sewing space. Where muscle memory used to help speed things along, I felt like a clumsy calf knocking things over and stumbling around searching for things. Everything felt new again.

The pattern instructions are clear. Jen is thorough enough that I didn’t get lost or overwhelmed. I love the shape. I made a size 0 and chopped off about an inch and a half from the sleeve. I basted everything first then ran it through my serger. I’ve worn this sweater at least once a week. The fabric is soft and light weight from fabric.com.

Linden Sweatshirt

The pattern doesn’t say to finish the finishing bands with topstitching, but I thought it made the sweater look finished.

Linden Sweatshirt topstitching

I have one more Linden to show you. Next time. Until then, I’ll be working on putting this site together.

Thanks for reading.